Tuesday 26 November 1991

Shinjuku

Today I don't have the luxury of sleeping in. So I join the morning rush on the subway and experience first hand riding in a packed carriage. Probably on account of the close physical proximity they are forced into, the Japanese have a habit of not invading personal space with looks. In the subway, everybody looks unconcerned and this preserves the illusion of social space. For breakfast I grab a box of sandwiches from a subway stall. For a few pieces of egg and ham or salad sandwich, one pays about 300 to 400 yen. Buffet lunches are provided by the symposium and comprise Japanese and Western tables. The Japanese table has a selection of sushi and cold noodles, while the Western table has items which would not be out of place in a Chinese restaurant, like fried rice, but also items peculiar to Japan, like squid tempura (squid fried in batter).

Since my brother has a reception this evening, I kill a little time in Tokyo station before going to his hotel in Ochanomizu, a district close to the University of Tokyo. We go to Shinjuku. At night Shinjuku is even livelier than in the day. Barkers on the street try to induce passersby to patronise bars where they will be hit with astronomical prices for drinks. Only businessmen with expense accounts can afford this. Nobody is harassed though. We select a Korean restaurant and have a Korean style barbecue. There is a rectangular gas-fired grill set in the middle of the table and one puts thin slices of marinated beef to cook there. Sticky rice and a rich stew accompany the meat. Tonight's meal is more reasonable at 2500 yen for two.

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